Oct 10. Tatopani to Philim. Manaslu trek, Nepal.
The real mountains were starting to peek out on the skyline. The water
thunders down the very steep river valley of the Buri Gandaki. Gorges are
carved deeply through the mountains and bridges are mere spidery threads
stretching across the walls. The water can be heard loudly thundering through.
When the water is quiet, the crickets take over with their loud almost
electronic buzzing sound.
Walter was fit and well, albeit slow on the walking. Who cares ? We have
plenty of time to get to Philim and the vibe of this area is to be savoured.
Elena, like me, likes to walk a bit faster, though neither of us can
keep the pace of our laden porters.
Anish and his brother are carrying all three of our bags along with their own
and Rajesh's. I feel pleased that I kept the weight down - but then he was
able to carry two sets ! The tracks are moist and leeches are about, Anish
displays with a wry smile his bloody hand leaking like an uncapped oil well.
The valley views are divine and it was a joy to take the time to walk along
them.
I had to try the local drop of beer. It was like drinking an alcoholic muddy
porridge. Along with this we also ordered our customary large thermos of
ginger tea sweetened with honey or sugar. The ginger tea is good for the
stomach and rehydration. /div>
Jagat was a neat village with a hive of activity. The busy life of survival
is on show with the kitchen utensils out drying in the sun along with washed
clothes. Grains and peppers are also prepared and dried ready for the winter
season . Here we had lunch. It took a long time to prepare our dahl blat,
but the wait was worth it. I rated it an equal first to the one we had in
Arughat Bazar.
A colourful map shows us where we are and the local facilities.
Cockerels are naturally born fighters, these guys went on for quite some
time.
At Jagat there is a check in station. You don't get far without the permits.
No fear of the animals crossing this bridge, and the flags will give us good
luck. Any fear we had long ago disappeared anyway.
Not many craftspeople are visible outside, but we did manage to see this
lady creating a nice weaving.
Remember to walk around to the left of a stupa. It is an important custom
and something that becomes second nature.
The construction industry along the Manaslu trek means it won't stay a quiet
backwoods walk forever. Some say there is only 10 to 20 years before it gets
spoiled like Annapurna. Hopefully it is much longer than that before
vehicles are seen.
We stay overnight in Philim. Our accommodation is rather gaudy the cabins
are striking with their dark pink coating. We were able to have a hot shower
here as well. The local school was donated by a Japanese family in thanks
for the efforts the Nepalese did in assisting an ill fated expedition.
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