Oct 17 Dharamsala via Larke La to Bimtang. Manaslu trek, Nepal

My first pass over 5000m. An early start, it was very cold and a very beautiful scene. We were exhilarated, or perhaps relieved when the apex, Larke La was crested at 5135m. As I went down, yak caravans laboured up. We stopped for pizza and an overnight stay with the creature comforts provided in Bimtang.

Early to rise, we depart at 6:15am, the reason for this is to avoid the high winds that power up as the day warms up. Breakfast was simple meal of muesli with apple. Morning was bright and clear, with no hint of last night's snow. No mistakes with the gear today. My balaclava and thin merino cap served well for head protection.

It was very cold up here. Water does not remain water for long. This lake was frozen, we tossed rocks down and watched them bounce on the clear surface.

It was tough going over the Larke pass. The food at breakfast was not enough to fuel me and none of the porters had any food. Big note to self, even if the food is supplied, take an emergency supply. The trouble is that at these heights, things that you would normally think of are easily forgotten.

In hindsight, a checklist would be very useful. Luckily another porter had a pack biscuits on the trail and shared some with me, I was so grateful and left a tip in thanks. That was enough to power me up and get energised to cope with the cold, snow, rain and altitude that was thrown at me. Fortunately I had plenty of water to keep hydrated.

At the top there was a cheer and many photos taken by us and other parties. When Rajesh caught up I had a real go at him for not provisioning the porters adequately. I got over it with the exhilaration of being at the top.

The descent provided an amazing injection of super power into the body. It was a tricky steep descent on a huge run of scree. There were a number of yak caravans breathing heavily as they made their way up the steep rocky slopes. These are amazing creatures, and probably the only ones capable at this altitude.

The accommodation at Bimtang is a real step up to what we were used to. The proximity to the Annapurna circuit means that building materials can be transported readily, almost all the way by vehicle and then transported by animal or man power.

The common dining room had a heater that was used by all. The Nepalis for some reason liked to have the door open, and we were forever running up to close it.

Dinner was a feast of egg curry, chicken and vegetable soup, pizza with yak cheese and ginger tea. Recovery well on its way ! The yak cheese was a bit on the nose, but it tasted good.