Oct 15 Samdo, It's my birthday, the big 50. Manaslu trek, Nepal.

It was my birthday, a milestone event - I turn 50, and what a fitting place to do it, high up in the Himalaya at 3800m in Samdo. I felt special when I heard "Happy birthday Stuart". Rajesh gave me a white scarf (aka khata) as a gift, which sybolizes peace and purity. Elena gave me a buffalo horn bracelet and a card to remember her and Walter by.

Breakfast was 2 eggs and apple muesli, which is currently my staple for the time being .

Another great day. I intended to visit the lake this time around the other side, but Walter and Elena did not wish to go. It was not prudent for me to go alone as at these altitudes anything can happen. Instead we had a dip in the river, again very cold, so it was not a long one !

My progress today going anywhere was slow as it was a day to acclimatize. How good it is to simply loll about aimlessly and take in the views. What a panorama - magnifico as my Italian friends would say.

Elena gave Rajesh some antibiotics a couple of days ago. They seem to be working, his cough is not so deep and congestive sounding.

The flowers up here a small, seemingly dainty and close to the ground. But I'd say they have taken their fair share of animal hoofs in their time.

It never ceases to amaze me how these bridges hold up to the loads they carry, and the fear never quite disappears when I cross one with the lack of railing support and open gaps between timbers.

I watched spellbound as a yak calf tried to ford the river, it slipped and near drowned in the raging waters. Somehow its survival mode kicked in and it got out.

I did not like the accommodation on offer, it was a concrete cell rather like a prison. So tonight for the first time I get out my high tech tent. It created a great deal of interest from the locals and other tourists. They were impressed with the super light weight and volume.

There was a large mani wall in town with many inscriptions on the rock tablets. One day I might find out what they say or mean.

I liked this village, as it has buildings less conspicuous in the environment over those in Sama gaon, The mountain back drop was also closer. I really enjoyed the friendliness and shy curiosity of the kids as well as the friendliness of the adults.

For dinner I had fired noodles with egg and vegetables followed by garlic soup. I then shouted everyone apple pie with a 50 sign written in jam - a great substitute for a birthday cake. We then played cards.

Camping at night was very cold. I was in bed at 8:30pm. I was comfortable and slept soundly until some yaks strolled past at around 11pm. It was a scary moment seeing these huge horns moving in shadows on the outside. I got up and shooed them away, furthermore at 5:00am a horse decided to invade my space. Goodbye to my peaceful outdoor camping experience.