We had a massive day of walking, starting early to hike over the Thorong La
Pass peaking at 5416 metres. Then a long descent to Muktinath where I bought a
souvenir or two and had a nice lunch. As we could not secure a jeep, and being
early in the day, we chose to walk to Jomsom.
We left early as it was a big day ahead. Awake, breakfast at 5:30am and off at
6:15am. We were at the top of Thorung La at 7:30am. The morning was very cold,
I had to change my gloves to much heavier ones as I could not generate enough
body heat to warm my hands. At least it is not windy. Apparently if you leave
it too late it is a very dangerous affair with the winds blasting over the
pass.
The ascent was relentless. We pass many people on the way up, many of whom are
not in any condition to complete the task ahead. The locals were making a
roaring trade with their mountain taxis ie. animals to carry tourists who fail
in their resolve to make the giddy ascent.
At the apex of Thorung La, a tea house is conveniently placed for business.
Totally inadequate for all the hungry and thirsty customers, it was crowded
inside..
5416m gasping for joy or is that for breath ?
A look around, provides some pleasant views, unlike Lake Tilicho, these ponds
were frozen over.
It was a long way down to Muktinath, it is there somewhere in the
distance. The journey down was a quick one though, being a continuous
descent. Care had to be taken as some of the rocks were loose.
Midway, there was a conveniently placed rest stop, at Hotel Paradise.
2 hours later we were at a village dominated by a monastery and its huge walls.
A sign says "Welcome to Muktinath" Also a warning not to stray into the Mustang
restricted area !
What a view into the city with wall of the monastery and the mountain backdrop.
We walked in to an open market, where I succumbed to purchasing a few souvenirs.
Probably paid bit too much, being a captive tourist, but what the heck. I
ended up with a lovely thick yak jumper and some scarves for my wife and
daughters. Yes, there are locally made works for sale, of course it could be all
for show, as I did not see anyone working the looms. What is a town without its
shopping opportunities ? Colour is all the go with every hue you can imagine.
A not so busy police check point - I am happy about that. It is, as usual a
mandatory port of call.
Motor bikes, 4wd and buses. Civilisation, how long before there is a sealed road
over Thorung La ? I am hating this place already and can't wait to make an
exit.
Woe, it is prudent to book ahead: no jeeps are available to take us to Jomsom
in a time that was desired. Those that were, cost a lot more than I was
willing to pay. After a very tasty dal bhat, we were off to Jomsom
hoofing it on shanks pony.
As we leave, the Mustang region is in view, another expensive permit area.
Buildings somewhat precariously placed on the valley's precipitous edge.
Jeep stop at Khinga, no chance ! Almost time for another break anyway.
The ongoing rocky trails ripped my shoes apart. I had to throw mine away in
Pokhara, and that wasn't going to happen, as my porter snaffled them.
The walk to Jomsom was through a dry river valley. It was irritatingly
punctuated with motorcycle or 4wds passing by throwing up lots of choking
dust.
If I had of known, I would have arranged transport from Muktinath to Jomsom,
With the inescapable road over the dusty, rocky river bed, it just wasn't
pleasant. The view of the old buildings and the Mustang region were good, but
could not compensate for the discomfort and perhaps the sought after trip
conclusion.
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